Hen's blog

Carry-on bag

2011-12-03T20:46:00.005+01:00

Next item sewn for the flight to NZ:
A bag for the Carry-on luggage.

I made the pattern after the maximum allowed measurements at Singapore airlines:
50 cm x 40 cm x 25 cm. That is 50 liter! I think it is huge. See the Knipmode magazine for reference. Of course in the picture it is filled and not quite that exact shape any more. And it may only be 7 kg (in the picture ist is filled with sweaters and weighs 6 kg).
The straps are long enough that I can carry it over the shoulder, but short enough that I can carry it in the hand without it reaching the floor.
It has one zippered and one 'open' pocket on the outside, and one zippered and one open pocket on the inside (for example for quick location of the zip-lock bag with the liquids).
The fabric is EtaProof, waterproof cotton.

flight pants

2011-11-20T20:59:00.000+01:00

I made pants for the flight to New Zealand.

The pattern is from Loes Hinse, the Oxford pants.
I made the waistband lower, and made a combination of elastic and unelastic band in a tunnel.

The fabric is a dark brown ponte di roma knit from mainly rayon.
I hope these are as comfortable as but look better than sweat pants.
I will try them out on a ride on the night train next weekend.
They will go with the beige striped longsleeve I made last year and another brown-teal striped longsleeve I made in September from the same pattern, my TNT Zoela from Farbenmix.

More about the eagle T-Shirt

2011-07-20T21:53:00.000+02:00

kbenco is right (thanks for your comment), I was not very generous with information on the reverse applique. The backing fabric is the same quality as the T-Shirt fabric (I bought two T-Shirts of the same brand). The whole method is explained in this book: http://alabamachanin.com/books/alabama-stitch-book
There is lots of inspiration in the book, but the method can more or less be figured out by looking at a (good) photo. I found the eagle stencil googling "eagle stencil". I would like to design my own stencil - "next time". I applied the fabric paint with a sponge, that worked better than what I tried with a brush on a sample, but a spray bottle would probably be best. Then I stitched around all shapes by hand, through the top and backing layer, using double thread. I left the knots on the right side, as suggested in the book, as that reminds me of feathers. Finally you cut out the inside of the shapes until about 5 mm from the stitching line, careful not to cut through the backing fabric. And trim away the excess fabric on the inside of the T-Shirt. The eagle head in the photo is about 30 cm wide. Here is a photo of the inside of the T-Shirt. The fabric is actually white, but I took the photos late in the evening.

By the way I did all the stitching while DH was watching the Tour de France, I sat right behind him at the dining table, and I was glad - but not surprised - that he did not ask what I was doing.

More gifts

2011-07-17T17:54:00.004+02:00

I made towel with a hood for a school friend's baby.

The ribbon shows some Bavarian motifs, as my friend lives in Bavaria now and is teased with that.

From a thick elastic and some beads I made a lane-counting-wristband for a friend who takes me swimming sometimes. I have no idea if it works, and have not given it to her yet.

For my husband I reverse-appliqued an eagle on a purchased T-Shirt.

This was my inspiration:
http://alabamachanin.com/items/eagle-shirt

Gifts

2011-07-17T17:34:00.004+02:00

I made several gifts the past month.
A name banner for the baby of a study friend of mine:

The measurements are from the book "One Yard wonders". I glued on the felt letters with textile glue. The numbers are pinned on and exchangeable, now they show the date of birth but can be changed to show the age. I also made a little bag to store the banner in, and the other numbers. The fabric is from Liberty, my brother bought it for me one christmas, I think he had little clue what to buy (when I was in London earlier visiting him he waited outside Liberty), but everybody in the shop seemed to want this, so this is what he chose. I still have some fabric left. Maybe I'll make something for his daughter from it one day. But this banner was a lot of more work than I thought!

For my sister, who is travelling a lot, I made a little pen case with an elastic to fix it to a notebook. First photo shows the miniature pens that should go into it, and my paper model.

Then I made a test model, to figure out how to sew together the outer fabric and the self-fabric lining, because I challenged myself to make it so that no stitches are visible on the outside.

And here is the finished thing.

I made a softshell jacket!

2011-06-13T09:29:00.001+02:00

I finished a softshell jacket this month, and I am very happy with it. I think it is the most professional looking garment I have ever made.

For the pattern I used Jalie 2769. It is a sporty jacket with raglan sleeves, a stand up collar and front pockets. The pattern has quite a lot of detail compared to what I normally sew, but was not difficult to sew.

The softshell fabric from extremtextil is a three layer fabric: on the outside it is a little bit shiny from polyamide with lycra for stretch, polyester fleece on the inside for warmth, the middle layer is a membrane to make it water-and windproof while breathable, and it is impregnated with polyurethane. Perfect for outdoor activities in cool wet autumn or april weather. It looks a bit like neoprene diving suit.

I am a European size 38 on top and 42 at the bottom, I made size 40. The fabric I used has a little less stretch than the recommendation. It is not too small at the hip, but quite roomy on top. I think the excess fabric under the sleeves is intentional because it is a sports jacket. If I were to make it again I would go down a size at the upper part of the jacket.

I especially like the pockets, the yoke and the topstitching. The sleeves are nicely long and narrow at the cuff. There are many decorative dividing seams, but not all are functional, the yoke does not function as a bust dart, and in the back there could be more shaping in the dividing seams. I don’t routinely sew in zippers, and unpicked the front zipper once because the dividing seams did not align. Still not perfect, I think that was a cutting mistake. The fabric is quite thick and I should have cut from a single layer. Sewing this fabric was surprisingly easy.

For the pockets I used polyester lining, I used waterproof zippers, polyester thread and a jersey needle. I did not zig zag the seams because softshell does not fray. The sleeves are not lined but maybe that would not be a bad idea.

I am very happy I finally made this. I had kept the bill in the box with the fabric so I could see how long it took me to start this. By the way the fabric cost about 25Euro, with all the notions and the pattern it was maybe 50 Euro. Now I am already thinking of making another one, maybe in brown, with reflective piping, in a lighter quality…

Me-Made June

2011-05-23T23:36:00.007+02:00

I, Henrike of http://hensweblog.blogspot.com/ sign up as a participant of Me-Made-June '11. I endeavour to wear
at least one self made or refashioned garment each day for the duration of June 2011.

I will have to repeat items, but allow myself only to count each one twice, and will try to use it in different outfits.

I just checked and found that I have 13 garments suitable for June weather, so I have to finish at least two started projects before or during June. Or hope for a period of cold weather so I can incorporate more of my self made clothes...

A few small projects

2011-04-29T21:57:00.006+02:00

I sewed up some small quick projects.

A bag for my Yogamat, from fabric I found in my stash when sorting through it for the fleamarket on Queensday.

New covers for two bolsters I had also made myself. I bought the fabric at Liberty's when I was in London the first time. Had pictured a kind of 50s dress, but - get real!

And sleepshorts from fabric I bought in Alabama, with a fun print of Getas (Japanese "Flip Flops"). The pattern is called "perfect fit sleep shorts" in the book "One yard wonders", drafted according to individual measurements. They fit but I prefer a more advanced pattern even for shorts, for example from the crotch down goes a vertical line and does not curve back to the leg. Still o.k. for the pupose of sleepshorts or for an attempt to get a tan on the balcony.

Summary of 2010

2011-01-07T22:59:00.003+01:00

Inspired by Sharon (http://petiteandsewing.blogspot.com/2011/01/2010-what-year.html) I make a little review of last year’s sewing.

Pieces made:
Tops: 11
Skirts: 5
Presents: 5
Dress: 1
Coat: 1
Accessoires: 1
Bag: 1

So on average that is two pieces per month and that is exactly what I had aimed for. About half of them are quite basic pieces that can be worn on a regular basis, I am very happy about that. The rest is either special (paranimf dress), or I gave it away (the presents) or can not be worn at all – and I don’t mean the bag by that!

Highlights:
A highlight sewing wise in 2010 was in August the meeting with online sewing friends in London (http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,7881.70.html). People who enjoy spending hours just in the textiles section of the V&A museum. Fabric shopping with people who like fabric shopping!

2011 Sewing Goals:
With my thesis to be finished, I don’t think I can keep up this productivity. I will probably move this year, and be temporarily without a paid job, so a good resolution will be:

1) I am only allowed to buy fabric for one new project after I sewed two things from stash/UFO. Purchased fabric has to be used within three months.

Looking at my “pieces made” list, the number of tops reflects my actual needs quite well, but I made so many skirts while I mainly wear pants:

2) Sew pants. Wear skirts more often.

Finally, Sharon made a nice collage in her annual review of the pieces she made last year, and I can’t.

3) Take photos of everything I made. Show photos here and at http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php

Happy 2011!

1st SWAP item 2011

2010-12-30T19:57:00.005+01:00

I just made a T-Shirt which may be the first item im my SWAP collection.

The pattern is 2005 from Jalie, the view with the boat neck and 3/4 sleeves. I made it before in a black bourette silk knit (http://hensweblog.blogspot.com/2008/01/first-two-pieces-finished.html).
The fabric is a rayon knit in a nice deep tomato red.

A technique new to me is Marcy Tiltons method to hem knits. In London ejvc showed me a shirt where she used it, and it is a good alternative to using twin needles, where I always have problems with the thread tension. You serge (or zigzag) a stripe of fusible interfacing, sticky side up, to the wrong side of the fabric. Assemble the shirt as usual. Then iron the hem up, and topstitch two parallel lines.

what I wore with christmas

2010-12-30T16:05:00.004+01:00

This is what I wore with christmas. During travelling to my parents, I wore a striped longsleeved T-Shirt (with a fleece cardigan over it). The pattern is "Zoela" from Farbenmix, but I changed the raglan seams so that the stripes matched.

On christmas eve, for the dinner and the exchange of presents, I wore a skirt from a wool mix, the fabric is double faced with two shades of green, I used both sides color-blocking. The pattern is from schnittvision collection 1. The red shirt is also selfmade, from silk jersey.

To church I wore this tweed skirt, again a double faced fabric of which I used both sides, this time with a wave shape (from an ottobre magazine in 2006).

Comparing European pattern mags and sizing

2010-11-16T19:45:00.006+01:00

A member of stitcher's guild on artisanssquare, bessiecrocker, made an overview of the measurement charts of different European sewing pattern brands.
http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,11185.0.html
She offered her table for posting on a blog, and here it comes!

P = Patrones
M = Marfy
B = Burda
O = Ottobre
K = Knipmode
V = Vogue

**Marfy, Patrones and Vogue size numbering systems are different! Measurements matched for bust.
All measurements in centimenters. 10 cm equals 4 inches. 1 inch approx. 2.5 cm.
Onion patterns same as Burda, except 2 cm bigger at the hip (but Plus sizes may be different)

Main coclusion is that the differences are small looking at the measurements. Concerning fit, Ottobre is a bit shorter in the waist, Knipmode assumes a taller and more curvy figure, Marfy and Patrones are designed for a more tight fit even when correcting for the different numbering system. I found that I can cut a size smaller than my measurents suggest for burda bottoms.

When I have time I will add Knipmode plus, tall and petite measurements.
I also tried to find an overview of "European" sizes vs. Italian, UK, US etc., but did not find consistent information.
If anybody can correct or fill in info or share your experience with fit, please do so!

Previous Travel wardrobes

2010-11-07T20:37:00.007+01:00

Travel wardrobes are most challenging if you are not familiar with the climate, and when you have a lot of different activities.

For planning the next travel wardrobe, I recall what I learnt from trips the past years.

UAE in November
Learnt: Covering up was not everywhere as important as I thought, Would have liked to be more stylish, sometimes felt frumpy. Do not pack things you would not wear at home.
Good items were:
- Ankle-long nylon/cotton skirt was decent, comfortable, airy, feminine and dried quickly after washing
- Cute short-sleeved white cotton blouse
- Teva’s, and closed shoes for the evening

Florence in Italy in July
Learnt:
- Always have something (not in the laundry) to cover legs and arms in the evening against mosquitoes
- Bring a jersey cardigan against exaggerated air-conditioning
- Sandals can be too warm, need flip-flops
Good items were:
- Knee-long linen skirts with complementing blouses
- No jeans and jacket necessary, brought detergent and was able to travel with hand luggage only

Japan in January, South, middle and North
Learnt:
If it hadn’t been a relatively “warm” winter, I could have lost some toes on Hokkaido, need Canadian boots
Good items were:
Two warm cardigans (1 for “nice” from wool, 1 fleece), two pairs of pants (1 jeans, 1 “thermo”), longsleeves from silk, rayon, merino, and cotton with silver, longjohns…

Coldest day on Hokkaido

Warmest day on Kyushu

Travel wardrobe for Mobile, Alabama, in March. Climate?

2010-11-07T20:07:00.008+01:00

I want to go to a conference in Mobile, Alabama, next March. I am already thinking about a travel wardrobe (although I do not plan to sew everything myself). It is a marine ecology conference, so I expect the unwritten rule of clothing can be described as “outdoorsy nerds trying to dress up”. But there will also be more festive activities, like a banquet or so. Additionally I want to add some days for hiking/birdwatching at the coast.

What I am more worried about than the dress code concerning this wardrobe is the weather expectations.

On the internet I found a temperature range from 2 to 23°C for March in Mobile! Do I have to pack everything from woolen cardigans to short sleeved shirts? It would be nice to be able to narrow it down a bit. I also found the information that Mobile is a very rainy city. But what kind of rain? There are different kinds, I was reminded recently when I accompanied my husband to his new work place South of Berlin. We both got a cold. It was rainy and warm, so you need an umbrella. Something that we didn't own because it is completely useless on our island where it is always windy and the rain moves horizontally, so you need a rain jacket and pants. For rain in hot weather, wide, quick drying clothes are great, and then there is the rain that is more like a thick fog, where wool is nice because it keeps you warm even if it is a bit moist.

I know in theory that the gulf current is what keeps our North Sea ice free in winter although we are at the same latitude as Newfoundland! Then I was confused that the climate tables gave temperatures as low as 40 F for March. I have only little experience with hot weather, and no experience with warm humid weather and don’t know how to make the transfer form the climate table to a wardrobe.
I am quite excited about this trip, never been to America before.

I got lots of advice on SG (http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,10929.0.html), which I compile here:

"[...] March in Mobile is variable. I would go for the middle range though, rather than the extremes. We seldom have freezing weather, but we do have some big storms in spring (March). It can be quite humid and warm one day, then a weather front will fly though and it will be cool and breezy. You won't need a heavy coat (I don't even own one). I don't think this area is rainy at all! But I can almost guarantee it will rain in March. I would recommend light-weight long pants with a variety of tops, long and short sleeved, definitely not wool; you would get too hot. If you have some of those hiking pants with zip off legs, that would be perfect for your walks in case it is warm. A light-weight fleece jacket or vest and a light-weight rain jacket that could be worn over the fleece would be perfect in case it gets cold, or alone for just rain. I would bring a pair of shorts, too.
I usually wear knit tops, just because they are comfortable and come in lots of colors. By light weight pants I mean not wool, probably chinos or flowy rayon ones, knits are great, too. We have lots of good seafood so an elastic waist may be in order. The HVAC is very efficient, but in March it is sometimes difficult to keep up with the temperature swings outside....so you may be hot, or you may be cold. Not much help, I know."

"To present I would wear pants and a kick-ass top with a scarf (since that is what they will see from behind the podium) and a jacket I could take off. Or, since you already have it, skirt, boots and the same top/jacket idea. I've done 10 days with a couple pairs solid pants, several solid knit tops and some bright print scarves to change things around--that would separate you from the students. Then I have a solid fleece vest that coordinates so I can use when I need it. Remember, the humidity is a KILLER."

"I'm laughing about outdoorsy nerds! This is a tourist area, so we see people in everything. (I'm always saying that just because people can fit into something doesn't mean they should wear it) If your shorts and T-shirt match, you are dressed up."

"BTW, you will DEFINITELY want sunscreen for any exposed skin, even if it is cloudy. I assume you will be doing something with the Dauphin Island Sea Lab--terrific place."

"I notice you are from the Netherlands. I strongly suspect that you have no idea of how warm and humid the Alabama coast can be. Robbie is the expert but I second her statement that 70 degrees F is cold for us Southerners. I would bring one cardigan, one lightweight hooded rainjacket, and several long sleeved cotton tops. Robbie's idea of a fleece sleeveless vest is excellent, as it could be layered over the cardigan and under the rain jacket if the weather is "cold" and blustery."

"You've picked one of the most unpredictable months in the year for Alabama, could be in the high 70 one day and in a couple days in the high 40 or 50 Th's and then there is our little friend humidity to factor in. [...] March is a good time to wear skirts with boots and sweater sets for us. I start wearing linen, ponto roma knit made out of pants is good this time of the year. Sweater sets A rain coat a must if it lined that would be great so if its cold your OK and if its warm you can take it our . Skirts and dress are always good with boots or even you could do heels just depends It cold rain the whole time you are there or be near 80 you never know in March it Anne in between month There is the wind off the river and the bay too > That will make it seam cooler than it is but may not bother you."

"I would definitely think of layers and some rain gear. We have one or two bird watchers here on the boards and they can probably fill you in better, but sweater sets and nice slacks always work for me for non-outdoor trudging through the weeds activities. Mobile is quite warm and you're apt to get warm drizzle so breathable rainwear is good."

"I would only add that you might be grateful to have sunglasses and perhaps a hat that will shade your eyes."

"The humidity of the American south is hard to describe to a European. Try going into a steam room wearing clothes! It shouldn't be too bad in March, however. Is it too early for mosquitoes in Alabama in March? Is bug protection something to think about?"

"Hen, you'll be amazed by how inexpensive clothing is in the USA compared with European prices. You may want to travel really light and buy things there, if you have time. Shoes are about half the price that I pay in Europe. You can also get good quality basics (underwear, socks, pajamas, tee shirts) for not a lot of money. The basics are available at Walmart or other "discount" stores like Target, Kmart...etc. Buy a couple of new pairs of Levi jeans, too. The good thing is that you can go out and shop for the right clothes if the weather shifts...if it's hot, go native in a tank top and a pair of shorts...if you're freezing just add another layer or two."

"Any more info about the dress code for the banquet? Trying to figure out what a marine biologist considers "dressed up" could be a challenge. It could be alot more casual than a similar European event. Are they giving out awards at the dinner? Is it held at a big fancy hotel or some other place?"

"My point is that with the much-discussed humidity, it will feel MUCH colder than the actual temperature. You should maybe bring one warm sweater to layer under a jacket, because by March in the South, you won't find a sweater anywhere in the local stores , they'll be stocking swimsuits by January!"

"I don't know about Alabama in particular, but having been to a few conferences in the humid and warm parts of the world, I would recommend woven fabric shirts rather than knit tops - cooler to wear if it is hot and also more smart for day wear. If it gets cold you can wear a merino knit tank top or a thermal top underneath and still look smart. Are you presenting? It does not hurt to look better dressed than the other speakers.
Also in the US in my experience, the air conditioning and heating is very efficient - inside temperature may not have any relationship to the outside temperature. - take a cardigan or jacket for the air conditioning on a hot day, and make sure you have a respectable underneath layer for the heating on a cold day. I have sweated my way through a conference in Pennsylvania during winter because I was wearing my smart warm wool jacket and did not want to stand up the front in my camisole. Not fun!"

"I'm going to recommend against ANY type of wool in the Mobile after February for being outdoors. It will be hot and sticky or at least sticky even if it isn't too hot. And you can't wash and dry it easily in the humidity. Yes, it can be done and would be nice for your presentations, perhaps, that are inside and airconditioned. But you won't want that outside doing field work. I would wear long cotton (khaki or chinos) pants. They'll get sandy and salty and muddy. Maybe even shorts (Bermuda length to look "professional") and cotton or knit tops - don't forget mosquito repellent if you show skin. As RobbieK indicated, dressed up in parts of the southern US means your flip-flops match your hair scrunchy. I would wear chinos inside for this type of conference with a nice woven top, probably - Marlene pants would be good. And a sweater or jacket that goes with everything.
I hope you enjoy your trip, the Gulf coast is beautiful (oil spill and all), the people friendly and the seafood excellent. And every month is mosquito month in Alabama (and Mississippi and Louisiana and Georgia and... well, it touches the Gulf)."

"Mobile is very humid and in March I would think that the most you might need is a light sweater or jacket. The sweater for a possible cool night or over air conditioned spaces. You might want an umbrella or light rain jacket. Leave the wool, boots and coats at home. Mobile is more of a khaki pants and sport shirt place for men's attire outside of business settings. You will see just about everything, but I would think that your hubby would find this comfortable and presentable. As for your clothes, once again you will see everything. I would pack skirts, pants and tops knowing that the weather will be in the mid seventies during the day and cooler at night. Having lived in half a dozen U.S. states and in Germany, I find Mobile somewhat conservative in dress (we are talking the norm you will see everything including the proverbial "ugly American")."

"I wouldn't waste my luggage on boots unless you will be in a barn (the riding sort) or fishing or in water (the rubber sort). Boots with a skirt are not going to be comfortable that far south except maybe for New Year's Eve. You will not want wool, either. I like tropical wool, and I do wear pants made of it year round up here in Virginia, but only when inside all day and only the really lightweight stuff. No way I'd wear it outside for any length of time that far south, even in March. Or woolen sweaters, even in the a/c I think. I'd plan to layer, light shirts, a lightweight sweater and a jacket. Yes, something waterproof, either the jacket or an umbrella. Imagine the steamy bathroom after you've taken a hot shower with the door closed. If your clothes would be sticky there, they'll be sticky in Mobile most likely."

"Can't help you with the weather issue in Alabama at that time of year, but I think the other consideration with a travel wardrobe is packablility (if that is a word). The fabric I like the best in my travel wardrobe is the ponte knit. It is basically wrinkle free and folds up very small. I have found that pontes can be lightweight to medium weight. I like the ponte without polyester for breathability. Just a thought."

People in Mobile, Alabama, in February. Everybody is wearing jeans or other long pants, not everyone is wearing a jacket, and you see some with short sleeves. (Thanks to Janis http://janssewingroom.wordpress.com/ for the idea to google street scenes in the place of destination!).

SWAP rules 2011 - new techniques

2010-11-01T23:42:00.004+01:00

The rules for the sewing-with-a-plan-contest 2011 are published.

http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,11196.0.html

This year it is all about improving your skills.

I made an overview of methods I would like to master. The yellow ones I have avoided successfully so far, the red ones I had flops in the past with, and the green ones are skills I added just for fun.

I need a laptop bag - TODAY

2010-10-13T20:58:00.002+02:00

I just made a laptop bag! I use my laptop mainly at home as my only computer, but in two days I want to take it with me in the train. It is VERY big, and I could not find a laptop bag I wanted in the right size today.
I cut an old camping mat to the right size for the protection, and from a patterned denim I made a very quick bag. It closes just by tucking in the extending fabric into the filled bag. When I have time I might add a clasp later.

another layer

2010-10-12T19:09:00.003+02:00

I made another layering-piece from thin wool knit, in burgundy. The pattern is from Knipmode magazine October 2007. It was really quick to make because the neckline is an oversized turtleneck and it has a band instead of a hem, so does not require very accurate work.

2010-09-25T22:46:00.003+02:00

Finally finished the first top from fabric bought in London! It is a silk/wool knit.
The pattern is from burda magazine 8/2006. I made it up two years ago in black, but that looks old now. See how this colour matches with my door?

neckline versions

2010-08-29T09:32:00.012+02:00

Here I give an overview of some different neckline bindings on T-Shirts. The binding is one of the last things sewn when making a T-shirt, and also one of the most difficult things, so it can get disappointing.

In London (http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,7881.70.html) we talked about how our personalities are reflected in how we approach our sewing projects. Simplified, Ruthie is more of a getting-things-done person, who likes using tried-and-true-patterns to be able to add to her wardrobe quickly. Elizabeth likes to know how things work, likes to try new patterns and techniques, and may even leave things unfinished (with exceptions, e.g. pants).

I mainly go for quick satisfaction, but I found I may have some of both. For example one longsleeved shirt, Zoela from Farbenmix, I made about a dozen times, but recently tried out different versions to bind the neckline, just for the change and the challenge.
Although Karen is probably the most advanced and productive sewist of the four of us, she admired the neckline bindings on the T-shirts I wore, so I thought I’ll share how I did them.

The basic principle is always that you have a binding which is a bit shorter than the neckline (7-10% depending on stretchiness and recovery of the fabric). It has to be stretched while sewn to the neckline, and the most difficult part is to get it evenly distributed. I do not really give instructions here including pinning and basting, but only show different morphologies.

The first example is from the instructions that came with the pattern from farbenmix. You sew the binding, right side to right side, to the opening, fold over and under. Topstitch from the right side with a wide zig-zag.
+ The zig-zag is decorative
- While topstitching it is important to stretch the same amount all the time, otherwise the zig-zag will be irregular
I used this on a blue cotton-jersey with a subtle ajours-pattern and on a merino-shirt (meant as underwear, so I was not so concerned about the perfect binding).

For the second example I followed instructions from New Look, and I think this is also what I saw on Karen’s Jalie-shirt. You sew the binding, folded double, to the right side, it will turn up, and then you iron the seam allowances down. You may, or may not, topstitch through the seam allowances. I did this with a narrow zig-zag so that it still stretches.
+ I think this is what you often see on purchased shirts, so it looks professional
- It is very important to stretch the same amount all the time, otherwise the binding becomes smaller and wider in different places
I used this on a dark green rayon knit with lycra.

The above was inspired by something I read from shams (http://communingwithfabric.blogspot.com/2009/08/technique-reverse-binding-for-single.html). Sew the wrong side of the binding on the wrong side to the neckline. Turn over and stitch, and let the raw edge curl up.
+ Here you don’t see a stitching line, this was ideal with my previous machine, which made longer and shorter stitches depending on the sewing speed
- You are doing something “wrong” on purpose, so the overall look must show this was the intention and not a mistake
This was nice for a casual shirt striped in mud-colors, for a thin silk knit which was very “curly”, and for a jersey with two different sides.

I don’t know where I got the fourth method for this mottled shirt from, must have been stored somewhere in my subconscious (maybe from Jalie?). Sew the right side of the binding on the wrong side to the neckline. Turn over and under, topstitch.
+ One of my favorites, it is nicely flat and “clean”. If by mistake the binding was stretched irregularly while sewing the first seam, one can correct a little for the resulting varying width of the band by turning more and less under

This last one looks quite similar to the previous one. For the red shirt with pleats at the neckline I followed the instructions from Knipmode. The band is folded double and sewn to the inside, then turned outside, including the seam allowance, so that the stitching line is at the edge of the neckline. Topstitch.
- There are six fabric layers at the neckline, making it difficult to topstitch, especially if the seam allowances start to curl inside the tunnel
+ If done from the other side, and maybe starting with a single layer, this can give a nice sleek look like you would do with bias-binding on wovens
I cut the binding parallel to the grainline, because the neck is low and I did not need or want it to stretch more. For the same reason I used a straight stitch and not the narrow zig-zag.

2010-06-11T20:44:00.002+02:00

So here finally the picture of the dress.
It fits nicely at the bust, and also falls nicely from the hip down. The part inbetween is not so good because of the size difference between my bust and hip. I took several cm in at the side seams and darts, but now there is some volume in the front where my body doesn't have much volume. But even if I had found a better way to get rid of the eccess fabric, I realized that this type of silhouette is not good for me, just emphasises the pear. I wore (and always should wear) the dress with a jacket over it, to give me more "weight" on top.

The professors had some tough questions for my husband, but I did my best to have a confident expression. The party was nice, and now he works in New Zealand for two months.

Next project: Long Black Dress for PhD defence

2010-03-03T18:08:00.003+01:00

After our wedding the next important occassion that asks for a special dress is my husband's PhD defence in the end of april. I will be his paranimf, that is the analog of a bridesmaid for the PhD candidate.

Traditionally tailcoats are worn, but nowadays suits are also worn. Women often wear dresses. I already have been told it can not be too much. Now I am looking for something festive/gala/official/presentable to make.

Last year I bought this satin woll suiting that was called tuxedo-satin by the shop. It has a dull side with shiny stripes and a shiny side with dull stripes. The stripes are small (7 per inch). I have more than 5 meters, that would be enough to make a three-pieces suit with an extra skirt.

I came across this picture of a long bodice-dress in a fashion magazine. A long black dress would be very festive and appropriate. The skirt part should not be too slim (pear-body shape) and not too wide (because the fabric is soft but heavy, and striped; and because of the occasion).

burda magazine 12/2008 "Bambi awards" also has many patterns that go into the right direction. I think I should have sleeves or a blouse or a jacket. Not sure yet if I should make a one-piece or two-pieces dress.

SWAP 2010 progress

2010-02-28T20:34:00.002+01:00

I am not going to finish the whole SWAP within the deadline, but the rules inspired me to find this striped jersey. I am not sure though what to do with this raglan shirt pattern. The pattern piece on the left is the front, the one in the middle is the sleeve, and the pattern piece on the right is the back. The back and sleeve can be easily matched in the raglan-seam, but the front parts have different angles and will not match like this.

Should I
- sew it up like this, accepting that the stripes will not match in the front?
- find a different shirt pattern that can be matched?
- try to change this pattern so the stripes match?

Wedding outfits

2010-02-28T20:09:00.004+01:00

For the ceremony itself I wore the cardigan, and made a skirt form the remaining dress fabric, partly using the shiny side outside, partly using the dull side. I made the coat literally last minute from fabric my mother had bought ages ago. First she started to make a cape from it, but gave it to me as an UFO. I tried to make a duffle-coat type of thing from it, but also kept it in UFO state for years because it looked like a bathrobe. My wedding was a new motivation to make something more shaped from it. I had not dared that before because I did not want to destroy the embroidery.

wedding dress progress 2

2009-12-13T20:18:00.001+01:00

still to do:
- insert zipper
- lining skirt
- hems

Wedding dress progress

2009-11-07T11:11:00.000+01:00

I draped the wedding dress fabrics over my dress form to get an impression how it might look later (and to motivate myself to sew the muslin).

Fabrics I have:

- 4 m of linen-silk satin, quite heavy with a nice drape, with one shiny and one dull side, and a bit of horizontal structure
- 3.5 m cotton-silk crepe chiffon with a vertical structure
- 0.5 m dull silk with shiny rhombs
- a piece of crumbled raw cotton with a more rustic look in the same shade of ivory white.

The pattern I want to use is burda 7572 but with a self drafted skirt (as a circle segment), because I do not want to cut gorgeous fabric into so many small pieces, one of my whims.

In the first picture I layered the rhomb silk and the satin for the top, the satin and the chiffon for the skirt, and used the crumbled cotton as a band in the empire waist.

In the second picture I used the shiny side of the satin for the top, the dull side for the underskirt, left the chiffon skirt open in the front, and used the rhomb silk as a band.

(The waterfall collar and the kimono-look are not intended, it is just because I did not cut the fabric yet so I could only drape it that way.)

Now I am thinking about several decisions about the design and I also have several technical questions.

Design:
1. should I use layers in the top or not
2. which fabric to use for the band
3. leave the overskirt open in the front or not
4. if so, shiny or dull side up of the underskirt?

Construction (also design-related);
5. I know how to sew an invisible zipper, but how do you insert a zipper when you have a transparent top layer? When I have lining fabric, I sew the zipper into the main fabric and hand-sew the lining to it, but that does not seem right here. Do I sew the zipper in both layers at the same time? If so, do I try to make two separate side seams below that?
6. Can and should I insert the zipper in the side seam instead of the back?
7. If I have a back zipper, can I make the overskirt from two pieces with a center back seam and the front open, and no side seam? Or would that not drape and look nice because then I have the straight grain at the side and diagonal in the front?
8. I only once made something from chiffon before and then I used a small zigzag for the hem (folded, zigzagged and then cut back the seam allowance), is that the best hem option here?
9. all fabrics can be machine-washed (gentle cycle) according to the online-shop, should I pre-wash or not?
10. Do I have to cut the chiffon overskirt bigger than the satin underskirt?

SWAP 2010 planning

2009-10-24T23:25:00.000+02:00

I Digged out my blog again to share my plans and progress in the SWAP contest: http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic, 8747.0.html

If I try to be realistic, I think I can join the SWAP this time. I have too many other sewing plans. Most importantly my wedding dress. Something nice for Christmas. Some warm clothes for a winter vacation. My outfit for my husband's PhD-defense. And I can not make much time for sewing because I have to work on my own thesis, too!

Also, concerning my daily wardrobe, at the moment it is wiser to sew pieces to combine with things I already have. But for hot weather ... I do not even have enough pieces to fill in gaps, there is just one big gap and a SWAP would give my summer wardrobe a quick start. After the rules were posted, I had a 2-dresses-plan four hours later, I could not help it, I love planning. I think of a classy style based on black, beige and brown and white with some rust, and some Asiatic elements. This sounds pretty much like what I had planned for my first SWAP, but now for summer. Back then I made the mistake to try to include garments for all seasons.

I participated in two SWAP and never finished, but I made some of my most useful clothes and fabrics from these plans, also long after the deadline. Summer clothes are quick to sew ...

2008-04-02T10:48:00.001+02:00

I finished my devoré velvet skirt! I wore it at my cousin’s confirmation, after I hemmend it during the train ride to his place. The boys decorated the front garden with regional flags from the European west coast. On the photo I am standing in front of a flag of the northern German islands. “Rüm Hart, klaar Kiming” means “Big heart, clear view”, something like that in a regional language.

The velvet is from rayon with a silk back so I could etch out the twig motif, which comes from the batik I am going to use for a blouse. I took the pattern from a good-fitting purchased skirt. The lining is white for the contrast. The shirt pattern is from burda magazine august 2006. It has a shawl collar that becomes bands that are wrapped around the body. I made it from wool jersey.

These are garments number 3 and 4, additionally I have a pair of pants almost finished and two tops cut out, so I’m never going to make it before the deadline. I had thought that in spite of my busy work I could make 11 garments if I sewed one day per week on average, but I did not think of the people coming to visit and the family celebrations in the weekends, and the time it took to change my bedroom into my office/sewing room and vice versa… So now my plan is to finish until the end of the year by making about one SWAP-garment per month. Another resolution: I am only allowed to buy new fabric each time I used three fabrics from my stash.

work in progress

2008-02-11T16:32:00.000+01:00

first two pieces finished

2008-01-21T09:18:00.000+01:00

I finished the first two pieces! Probably the two simplest ones. T-Shirts are the type of garment I need most, at least I tried to choose an interesting neckline and not to make the average sleeve length. I realized that the commitment to the SWAP contest makes me follow the instructions more thoroughly, so I really made a machine stitched blind hem (for the first time) and did not take any shortcuts.

Score 2007

2008-01-05T16:48:00.001+01:00

For the SWAP I plan to make 11 garments within 4 months.
I just went through how many I made last year. It’s 9 (nine).

Four are not wearable (what a yield!) but maybe not totally lost:
1) a long skirt of wool georgette, material turned out to be unsuitable to walk through scrub, seam worn to threads, may be reworked into a shorter skirt
2) a tunic from hemp and silk crinkle, made it a size bigger on purpose, but did not bear in mind that it becomes bigger anyway during wearing as the crinkle flattens, have to resize it
3) a blouse of white linen with rayon for my friend, it’s shine through, may be saved through dyeing
4) a T-shirt, it shrunk but the print did not suit me anyway, I only could make sleeves for another shirt out of it

Two pieces I wear:
5) grey slacks from wool crepe with silk lining
6) a jersey cardigan sweater to wear with a dress

Three pieces I wear AND LIKE a lot:
7) a festive dress from rayon crepe (the dress from 6)
8) a short green linen skirt with a wavelike parting from ottobre 2-2007
9) a “decent outdoor-skirt” from Nylon blend

here you see 9)
photos of 7) and 8) follow

storyboard SWAP 2008

2007-12-10T17:38:00.000+01:00

SWAP: Sewing with a plan

2007-12-06T15:18:00.000+01:00

Idea: Sew 11 garments that can be combined with each other:

· 4 bottoms, e.g. 2 pants and 2 skirts
· 6 tops, e.g. two blouses and 4 shirts
· 1 jacket

Planning steps:

1.) what is the wardrobe for?

I want the clothes to wear at work. At my work the dress code is casual and sporty. The challenge is then not to look like an internship student. I will make casual corduroy pants and more official looking pants, a sporty and a more festive skirt. By combining them with blouses or shirts, I will get a range of styles.

2.) choose the basic colors with help of a printed fabric

The inspiration for the color scheme came from a striped herringbone fabric for pants. The black, beige and rusty red let me think of red grouse.

3.) To join the SWAP contest from timmelfabrics.com, three garments must be from one wardrobe pattern.

I choose New Look 6712, because I like the mandarin collar and the shoulder princess seams of the jacket. The pants are relatively slim; I have a wide TNT pattern already. I’ll make them from corduroy, so this “suit” will not look too overdressed. I like the Asiatic style of the blouse, but do not intend to make a whole Asiatic inspired wardrobe.

More aspects in my decisions:

I like natural fibers and use silk, cotton, linen, wool and rayon. I’ll make short and long sleeved blouses and shirts, a pullover and a top, so this will be a three seasons wardrobe (in winter I would need only pullovers).

I like breaks in style. To avoid that it looks chaotic, the colours should be the same if the style differs much. So the sporty shirt should be the same colour as the festive skirt.